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December 05, 2002

San Pedro Sula Dreams

I don’t remember where I was headed. Maybe it was to Trujillo, to the beach; maybe it was to the border then on to Guatemala. I remember having very few lempiras left, which either means I was waiting till I got to the bank in Trujillo, or trying to use them up so I could start afresh with quetzales in a few hours’ time.

It was a bus station I knew well, not least because of the hours that would pass between arriving on one bus and waiting for the next to leave. The bus would turn off the main road, and head through a residential zone before pulling into an oversized driveway. It was apparently quite near the city centre, or maybe just a bus company I wanted to use but could never find, but never felt any urge to explore. I’d arrive, buy a bottle of Fresca, find a chair to sit in and give my shoulders a well-earned rest from my rucksack. That would have been 1996. I’d returned my harp to its owner, and had gone to Mexico City a few weeks previously, so had probably already added a guitar to my load. Travelling semi-light.

I remember now. I’d returned to England partway through the summer for a family event, and was faced with approximately another month until I was due back at university. I still had my return ticket from Mexico to London, and at that time the fares to Honduras were thankfully cheap. I flew back to San Pedro Sula, the closest international airport to Trujillo, my favourite beach. In retrospect, I think that’s only relatively speaking: from the map of Honduras in my memory, Trujillo is the last coastal town before the impenetrable jungle mass of Mosquitia, aka the Mosquito Coast, as immortalised by Robert Holdstock and Harrison Ford. A few months previously, I had worked in Catacamas, the ‘frontier’ town on its southern edge.

So I sat there. Under the café’s canopy, near the front. Plastic chairs and tables, plastic colourful tablecloths. Even though I was sitting in the shade I only remember bright sunlight. How long did my Fresca last? How long did it stay cold? I don’t even remember how long I had to wait.

What I remember most strongly is Brown. The brown shade of the dirt of the bus terminal. A large square dusty brown expanse, with the browny-grey flooring of the café on one side. The afternoon sun playing across it, undisturbed by the non-arrival of buses. The other people in the café sat quietly; I was the only foreigner. Sometimes I pulled out my guide book to look at the town map, but then put it away again each time, unwilling to explore or leave the terminal.

I needed to buy some punta music – the pop music of the local Garifuna population. I’d left Trujillo too early in the morning to buy any, and this bus terminal was my last hope. It was close enough to the coastal towns that they might have some; if they didn’t, I’d have to wait till the next time I made it to the coast. I had enough money in lempiras to buy three tapes, if I wasn’t grossly overcharged. So I sat there waiting, until one of the tape sellers arrived and made a beeline for me.

It was some time later when the watch seller arrived. I’d been using an alarm clock as a watch, and seeing him reminded me how impractical that was. Given I had managed to smash the fronts of my last two watches, I chose one with bars across the face. And a compass on the side; tapping it would make it change its mind and swing in a different direction. He wanted 200 lempiras for it. I only had 55. In the true spirit of bargaining, he accepted it and moved on to the next table. I now had three punta tapes and a watch.

Six and a half years later, my mind has been back in that chair at that table in that bus terminal all morning, disregarding the chaos around me and the backlogged workload. I’ve never forgotten that afternoon – one afternoon out of the half dozen or more times I changed buses there – nor have I ever understood its significance for me.

When I’m travelling and not commuting, I lose all concept of time and impatience; time simply flows around and past me. And perhaps that explains why I still cherish that afternoon, still feel drawn to it: the sense of peace and relaxation, even the sense of space without any buses parked on the dirt square.

Or maybe it’s one of those places which scream at you that you’re truly in Central America. The kind of place you need to go to shake off the London stress and ingrained habits; the kind of place you can hold in your memory when you return and use as a protective shield against the grimness of everyday life.

Posted by chantal at December 5, 2002 03:55 PM

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