October 09, 2002
Land of the Eternal Alcoholic
I’m trying hard to be positive. I really am. When everyone you know is so unequivocally positive about a place, it’s probably not natural to be suspicious. I am. What happened to them? Where did they go that I didn’t? What commission are they getting from the Irish Tourist Board? Should I wonder about where else they have been to make Dublin so wonderful by comparison?
I have a belief that the start of the year is indicative of what the rest of the year will be like. And I’ve been thinking about that a lot, wondering if the same applies to potential new homes as well. Okay, so I didn’t get much sleep last week, and I might not be in the best frame of mind to judge a place. But where did judging come into it? I thought Dublin was meant to be pure, undeniable enjoyment and satisfaction. After all, even people who have never been there rave about it. I also didn’t get much sleep on Saturday night either so that probably didn’t help much either. I was meant to be gigging tonight but am too tired. I had planned to go to bed after Eastenders, my usual habit, but I missed it and my plans took a hasty diversion from then on. It’s now way past my bedtime so thank you diversion.
I think I expected a more significant difference between Dublin and London. Certainly the Temple Bar area reminds me of a weird combination of Brighton and Amsterdam. But that’s only a few blocks, and if you head south of there you end up in Grafton Street, Shopping Land, where you’re confronted with Boots, Marks & Spencers, Carphone Warehouse and any number of familiar high street chains. Spar is your local friendly late night shop. The streets are reminiscent of being in north London – and not the pleasant bits either. There are enough tourists about to confuse you as to where you actually are, although I’ve had the joy of listening to a Chinese woman speak with a broad Irish accent. I know all too well the Irish reputation for extreme friendliness, but when I walk down the street I end up thinking, ‘Naah, tourist,’ at most of the people I see. I’m sorely missing Arabic music and dancing, but each time I see any arabic people I can’t decide whether they’re tourist or local.
Maybe one definition of Irishness is its conformity to monoculture. I know that artists – and I think that applies to all artforms – receive tax breaks by way of encouragement, but to what extent does culture need external influences to develop? And that seems to be what is sorely missing here. A lot of Irish artistry seems to be confined to an alarming number of tourist shops, catering to their stereotypical image, which seems a shame, given its heritage and richness. I have heard a number of buskers playing cover songs, but the Land of Music’s heart is firmly entrenched in traditional music, and has a sufficiently small music scene to not even make it into the listings of the main nationwide events guide. I recognised one of the upcoming musicians from the London acoustic circuit, but it seems that Dublin simply doesn’t have the capacity to cater for divergent interests. When I mention my flamenco or hebrew music, I receive blank looks, although not as blank as the looks I get when I ask after Arabic music. I think I read something about Ireland having an important film industry – think The Commitments, The Van, Michael Collins and the depressing one with Emily Watson and Robert Carlyle – but I can’t find cinema listings anywhere.
And yet Dublin is meant to be a highly international city. Certainly it is possibly as expensive as London, but something about this city draws or retains tourists and won’t let them leave. I’ve met a number of people who chose to work in Dublin so they can improve their English; very few of them have been here before. And yet where does this multiculturalism go? Perhaps it’s what I was accusing America of a few hours ago – that you are forced to adopt the country’s own unique culture and forget all that came before. I really don’t know what draws them here. The nightlife, the friendliness of the Irish, the buzz, the ability to sit in a pub and drink alone.
Someone at my leaving party a few days ago – at least, I think that’s when it was – told me that the Irish are extremely paternalistic, that they see these puir defenceless wee youngsters and seek to parent and reassure them. Perhaps it’s more upfront an attitude than I’m used to, but when you meet as many people as I do, I don’t think there’s that much difference except perhaps in the presentation. Or perhaps it is a way of being able to express friendliness and openness whilst still maintaining an element of distance. My impression was that it enabled men of questionable intelligence to act superior and omniscient, asking many questions, not paying the slightest notice to any answer, and repeating themselves a lot. It’s sort of hypnotic at the time, but it’s not until afterwards, when I’m storming back to my hotel, that I can properly fume about it. When I was in Barcelona, the night before a job interview, I appreciated being blessed by some stranger and being told by a chainsmoking tarot lady that I was making a terrible career move, but as a rule I don’t appreciate beatific strangers assuming confidential information about my destiny. Or maybe I’m too intolerant. I had hoped that Dublin would soften my feminist instincts, but I don’t know what I’ll do about my resentment of omniscient types. The mad painter kept telling me that I was enjoying myself here, even though I had told him that it’s actually quite major to give up the last three years and a half of your life, however unhappy, and relocate yourself to a place you’ve never been drawn to, and that I’m a bit apprehensive about the number of reservations I’m having. He repeated many times that I should enjoy everything that comes my way, and wholeheartedly expected me to turn up in another pub an hour later so he could continue.
Most of you will know how shocked I was at being offered a job here, considering how specific I was about working in either Holland or Mexico. Dublin? Where did that come into it? And so I figured, completely independent of the Rolling Stones, that you don’t always get what you want, instead you get what you need. Certainly I know I Have My Issues – feminism, intolerance and a latent fear of nationalism among them – a horror of heavy drinking being yet another. It’s something I’ve never been able to stand in British mentality, that one drinks because, well, they must, and being obscenely drunk is something to aspire and look forward to. Oh Christ. On Saturday night I had to sidestep drunk people and pools of vomit the whole way home, and smile sweetly at people who had long since ceased to be coherent. I don’t think this is something I want to change about myself, yet a city renowned for its overabundance of pubs is not an appealing place to be. Do I learn to tolerate and indeed appreciate these people, or simply avoid staying out late? And despite ‘Alcohol Addiction’ having its own separate entry in the Yellow Pages’ index, this is such a prevalent aspect of Irish life that I don’t even know how alcoholism is defined here. Or how it is recognised. London taught me to value pub culture, but Dublin has taught me the value of non-alcoholic drinks. The Irish government is considering raising the cost of cigarettes to 10 euros a pack, using cost as a deterrent, yet the high cost of alcohol has apparently made no impact at all.
The pleasant surprise about this pub culture is the wide spectrum of society it covers. There are so many pubs, so few other institutions that people of all generations and lifestyles naturally socialise in pubs and not more exclusive places. Middle-aged women dress up to go to the pub, and I missed an elderly woman belting out a full-throated song in the lock-in party I went to afterwards. Although I have been repeatedly told what a youthful city Dublin is, it’s the older people who I notice, who don’t stand out because they wouldn’t belong in a Londoner’s eyes, but because they seem to represent some unique aspect of Irish culture.
As I said, I’m trying hard to be positive. My last few years in London have not been something I would ever choose to repeat, and somehow moving to Dublin has not been enough. Someone told me that having no interest in a place and no excitement about moving is a Good Thing, that it prevents false expectations and hopes. Moving to this country has felt like going across London to stay with a friend, with the obvious exception of the friend. What do I miss about London? My lovely home, my dance classes, the music scene that I resolutely avoid. Or maybe what I miss about London is the illusion of stability – the familiarity and predictability – and the security of knowing that the backdrop will never change despite the number of jobs I go through and the friends that come and go.
When I was in Central America over Christmas and New Years, I missed the stability of my weekly schedule, neatly divided between dance evenings and days of complete exhaustion, but at least I could pick a day of the week and know what I was doing. I never returned to my dance schedule. Familiarity and predictability aren’t enough, and so that is why I chose to move. I don’t know what I’m looking for here, but certainly it isn’t slapping me in the face and biting me in the nose. Maybe the difference between myself and all the others who raved about this place is that they came here with the knowledge they would be leaving in a few days, whereas I’ve been looking around and thinking, ‘Home?’
I’m the sort of person who can arrive in a place and feel instantly at home – anywhere, that is, apart from London. And surely three and a half years of London should be sufficient to make me embrace any new place with open arms and a huge smile. Is it simply that I’ve lost the knack? No matter where I arrive, be it for a few days or few months, I maintain the same approach – hit the Yellow Pages, wander about lots, look friendly and talk to everyone in sight. Despite my reputation for overfriendliness, the only people I’ve met so far are a bunch of musicians and a deranged painter from Cork. The first person to speak to me was a South African looking for a restaurant. I have fond memories of life in Guatemala, where knowing everyone in town pretty much on the spot is a way of life, yet now I’m having apprehensions, wondering how long I would cope back there without regular dance classes and a varied music scene on tap. Here’s it’s traditional music, there it’s Andean. Take your pick.
Dublin, 7 October 02.
Posted by chantal at October 9, 2002 03:38 PM
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